How to Degraft Astrophytum [Patience is Key]

How to Degraft Astrophytum

It is evident that in terms of size-price ratio there is a big difference between grafted and non-grafted ones Astrophytum.

The removing and rerooting of the scion from the stock of a grafted plant. A plant is said to be drafted when it (removed from the graft) will produce a new autonomous roots system.

To degraft depends of course on the graft that it is. It is recommended not to degraft species that are difficult to root (a typical example is the Aztekium). 

In species whose cuttings root easily, they can be cut along the graft union line and rooted normally. Applying rooting hormones also helps.

What you’ll require is:
1) a small, maybe 2-inch-tall container.
2) Vermiculite
3) a degrafted plant (assuming it has completely healed and dried, ideally treated with fungicide)
4) water


Spread the vermiculite (or cactus mix) in a shallow tray at a height of about an inch. The height should be just right to allow you to bury the plant slightly for balance.
Place the plant on top of the medium after dampening it. Store in a bright room, ideally away from direct sunlight.
Mist the medium with water every two to three days or when it becomes dry.
We watch. Some plants begin to grow within a week, while others take longer. It differs. The fundamental objective is to create a situation that prevents it from rotting.

How to degraft an Astrophytum Cactus 

One of the most popular thornless cacti. Extremely drought tolerant, adapting well to various temperatures but prefer temperatures above 10°C.

It has a distinctive appearance, curved spikes, and large yellow flowers.


The stem has prominent ribs that form along its whole length, ranging in number from 4 to 8 (often 5), are devoid of spines, and are coated in tufts of silvery hairs. The stem is 6 to 9 cm in diameter, spherical, and occasionally becomes ovoid with age.

Large, daisy-like blooms that are about 6 cm in diameter, light yellow with a reddish core, develop on the top of the cactus in the summer. After flowering, red fruits with black seeds appear after about 2 weeks, and they sprout rather readily.

Flowering time 

The cactus can be adorned with enormous buds and delicate flowers during the summer. It’s crucial to observe a chilly, dry dormant phase for the start of flowering.

Flowers – single or double – can remain wide open and attractive for as little as 1 day. During flowering, plants can emit a pleasant aroma. 

 Soil for Astrophytum 

Optimally suitable soil for cacti consists of perlite, gravel chips, zeolite, a small amount of peat and compost, and ready-made mixtures for cacti. 

For better drainage, it is preferable to cover the soil with small pebbles that are about 2 to 3 cm high; this will draw moisture away from the root neck after watering.

A little crushed charcoal can be added to the substrate to prevent rot. A drainage layer made of broken bricks, clay shards, or expanded clay should be placed at the bottom of the pot; its height should not exceed one-third of the pot’s height.

The finished potting mix should have a slightly acidic or neutral pH.


Every year in the spring when they mature into a larger pot, young plants (up to 3 to 4 years old) are transplanted. Every three to four years, adults need to be repotted.
Cacti are only transplanted because the pot has become too small; they grow slowly and don’t need a lot of fertilizers.
When working with this cactus, you need be careful to protect your hands because it has quite sharp spikes.

The fact that the stem has gotten broader than the container walls may be a clue that astrophytum needs to be transplanted.

The flower is removed from the old soil and shaken to remove any remaining traces of the previous substrate.When necessary, rotting and aged roots are removed once the root system has been examined. Brilliant green or coal powder is used to treat cuts for drying and disinfecting.
These specimens are allowed to air dry for 2-4 days.

Put a moisture-wicking layer on the bottom of fresh flower pots and make sure they have many of drainage holes. Cactus-specific soil should be added to pots before adding a flower with straightened roots to the middle. The cactus is gradually covered in dirt from all sides, and the pot is gently shaken to help the soil compact sufficiently.

The cactus should be placed in the new pot at the same depth as it was in the old one, and the pot’s diameter should only be raised by 2 to 3 cm. As a lot of soil will retain water after watering, planting right away in huge containers will result in rot.

After planting, you should not immediately water the flower – it is left for 5 to 7 days in a well-lit place without direct sun. Plants will be enough of the moisture that is in the fresh substrate.

Additionally, such cacti shouldn’t be fed for 3–4 months as coming into touch with mineral fertilizer’s disturbed and probably damaged roots can result in a chemical burn.


Only during the growing season is fertilizer for cacti with a low nitrogen content and a suitable amount of potassium administered to Astrophytum once a month.

Fertilizers can be used directly after watering on moist soil after being diluted to half the dosage suggested on the box.

Even a solution that is adequately concentrated won’t hurt the plants in these circumstances. Feeding is not done in the fall and winter; it is only done again in the spring.


Desert cactus enjoy the sun and will grow well in areas with lots of it.

 Astrophytum should be situated where the plants get at least three to four hours of direct sunlight each day.

Windows facing southeast or southwest are ideal for cacti.

There is no need for artificial supplemental lighting during the winter months when temperatures are low. 

Avoid letting the cactus’ body get direct sunlight throughout the daylight during the summer.

Content temperature

When growing cacti indoors, temperatures between 15 and 21 °C are thought to be ideal from spring through fall. Cacti should be kept cool during the winter, at 10 to 12 °C. The highest summer heat will be brought by this cactus without any issues.

Bring plant-filled containers outside during the warmer months to a veranda, loggia, or balcony to keep them dry from the rain. In these circumstances, the plants will also receive a daily temperature differential.

The winter rest period is necessary for laying buds, also in the winter months, plants often experience a lack of light, and the cool temperature of the content will slow down development and the cactus will not become elongated and thin.

Within 10 to 12 days, you shouldn’t drastically alter the ambient temperature because plants become adapted to all changes gradually.


Can you Degraft a cactus?

A grafted cactus is simply one cactus plant formed from two different species of cacti being fused together. Grafting makes it possible for two species of cactus to thrive by combining the top cactus (also called the scion) with green cacti bottoms (referred to as the rootstock).

A successful graft can grow a very large and beautiful plant, but it will only work if you approach the procedure with a few things in mind. When you’re selecting a scion, you want to make sure you choose one whose top is healthy enough to survive the operation. The scion should also be a little bit larger than the rootstock; if they’re too close in size, this could cause an imbalance that makes survival difficult.

The most important part of degrafting is making sure both the top and bottom are ready for planting. You’ll need to let both the top and bottom dry out for about two weeks before beginning the process, which involves making a diagonal cross-cut on both ends of each plant using clean, sterilized blades. After you’ve made your cuts, wait at least 24 hours for scions to form a callus on the bottom and ensure that there’s no bleeding before proceeding.

Can a Grafted Cactus be Ungrafted?

Grafting cacti is a common practice that has been around since the 16th century. Some cacti are slow growing and take years to fruit or bloom, so it’s a useful method for speeding up propagation. It also allows some types of cacti that are difficult to grow on their own roots (for example, tall, thin columnar ones) to be planted in soil and virtually taken care of by their owners.

Grafted plants can stay grafted for many years with proper care, but sometimes a grafted plant will outgrow its graft stock or start looking unkempt. When this happens, there are ways to remove the grafted plant from its stock.

In most cases, you can simply remove the scion (the part of the plant that you want to keep) from the rootstock (the part you want to get rid of), by cutting it off at ground level. However, if you’re dealing with a very large or old plant—especially one that’s in a pot—this may not be an option. The rootstock may have become too thick and woody to cut through easily without damaging the scion beneath it. If this is the case, you’ll need to cut off more than just the top.

How Long do Grafted Cactus Live?

Cactus plants can live from 10 to 200 years. This is a very long time to grow something, especially if you’re only interested in its flowers and fruit. Cacti are essentially the “decorations” of the desert, and they need a lot of water and sun to grow.

In order to get more bang for your buck out of your cacti, you can graft them together with another plant. Grafting is a process where you take the top part of one plant, attach it to the bottom part of another plant (the rootstock) and then wait for them to grow into each other. The grafted cactus will grow like the top part since it’s been attached to the rootstock which is rooted in soil.

Grafted cacti are popular because they let someone enjoy their favorite cactus for longer. Grafting a colorful ball cactus onto a hardy rootstock, for example, lets someone enjoy their ball cactus much longer than they would have otherwise. The colorful ball cactus will usually outgrow its rootstock within a few years, making it look as though it’s dying.

Anwar Hossain

My name is Anwar Hossain. I am a cactus lover, researcher, and cactus blogger.

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